Expert Hardwood Floor Installation & Refinishing

hardwood floors

How Long Does It Take To Install/Refinish Your Hardwood Floors?

“Time is of the essence”…a statement so important that it’s written on a real estate contract, as you all know. Truth is, that statement holds true even after the real estate deal has been consummated. After the contracts have been signed there will be more work to do, the work that will make the house look like home. These big renovations have a lot of moving parts and can be a lot to coordinate. There is always a timeline involved which makes it essential for all the trades to adhere to the timeline they give the home owner. So how long is is going to take to do the hardwood floors? No one wants the other contractors messing up a brand new hardwood floor or newly refinished hardwood floor so we should be in last. That puts a bit of pressure on us to stick to a firm timeline as many times furniture is on it’s way and people are eager to move in to their new homes. The way we handle this pressure is by working efficiently and maintaining communication with the home owners so there are no unnecessary delays. We stick with a system that keeps us on point and ensures that we work in a timely fashion while still delivering exceptional results. So how long to do a hardwood floor? An installation from 600-1200 sqft would take 2-3 days to complete. Figure 3 days if there is an existing floor to demo. Installs from 1200-2000 sqft would take 3-4 days to complete. Anything larger would most likely be 4-5 days. One factor that can extend these timelines is whether or not there is furniture in the house. Refinishing hardwood floors takes longer to complete as the staining and finishing both require time to dry. If a hardwood floor refinishing project is within 600-1200 sqft and a stain is desired, the project will take 3 days to complete. One day to sand and stain, two days to apply the urethane finish. Jobs 1200 sqft and up will take 4-5 days to complete. Again, these timelines would increase if there is furniture, existing flooring to remove or repairs. Many times in the summer months on very humid days the stain does not always dry in time to coat the floors with finish on the next day, thus causing a delay. The same can happen with the urethane finish. Now, there are finishes like acrylic and Bona that dry much faster and would result in being able to complete the work sooner. With those finishes, a 3 day job can be completed in 2 under ideal conditions.

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Man installing wood flooring in home.

All the Little But Important Details That Go Along With Your Hardwood Flooring.

I’ve always wondered if people would be more adventurous with their floors if they knew all the options available to them. Like most of you, I’ve seen countless homes and have also watched tends come and go. The majority of my customer want a floor that will work well with their house and furniture. Most home-owners are presented the same ideas and same kinds of floors most hardwood flooring contractors or general contractors recommend. Again, usually they are going by what the customer is describing as their ideal floor. I have the feeling that a lot of home-owners would be more excited about their hardwood floors if they knew how to make them really personalized and unique. To be clear, I’m not talking about high-cost hardwood flooring nor exotic species of wood that nobody else or can afford. I’m talking about little details and differences that are available to home-owners who would like to add personal touches to their hardwood floors. Here are a couple of ideas that won’t break the bank but can make a hardwood floor look extraordinary: Metal Transitions and Borders These can add a very sophisticated touch to any hardwood flooring job. The metal inserts could be used as a border around the perimeter of a room or as transition pieces at doorways between he hardwood floor and another type of hard surface floor. The metal is available indifferent colors that can pick up from hues in the wood. The contrast between wood and metal gives a very rustic-modern feel and can work well in just about any home. Random Width Boards I’m surprised that more people don’t go with random widths when installing a new hardwood floor. Even if you’re going with a run of the mill prefinished hardwood you could always make it more interesting by mixing up the size of the boards. You could do 3 1/4″ next to a 5″. If you’re doing site-finished flooring you could do 3 1/4″, 4″ and 5″ or go even wider than that depending on what would look good in the rooms. Either way, I think random width flooring gives a floor a very custom look as it’s just not all that common out there. Stone Trim and Transitions Much like metal, stone can make for a very sophisticated and elegant addition to a hardwood flooring job. You can find stone products that have similar grain patterns to the wood floor as well as complimenting it tone-wise. It probably would be expensive to do the whole house, but a mud-room or other specialty/utility room could get a stone base to match or compliment the wood floor. Lots of possibilities, just need a little vision.

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Info On The Two Different Types Of Oak Hardwood Flooring

By far the two most sought after species of hardwood flooring are Red & White Oak. This brings up a question – what are the differences between the two? One of the most noticeable differences between RO and WO flooring lies in their color variations. WO flooring displays hues of medium brown and tan, while RO boasts tints and subtleties of red and pink. Both types of oak flooring accept stains well, but their staining capabilities differ. RO tends to turn a more distinct reddish shade when stained. WO, on the other hand, generally darkens to a brown hue. Despite their initial difference in color, when stain is applied to them that difference is diminished. The other factor that can visibly distinguish one flooring from another is the grain pattern of the wood.  While both are obviously oak, there is a definite difference between the look of WO and RO based on the graining. WO has a tighter, more consistent grain pattern while RO has a more wavy and varied grain pattern. The Janka scale is a measure of the hardness of wood and is utilized to compare the hardness of different species of wood. WO has a hardness rating of 1360, while RO has a rating of 1290, making WO generally considered harder than RO. This difference in hardness translates to a higher resistance to wear and tear for WO flooring, contributing to its durability. Mainly, this hardness difference helps combat against dents and dings in your hardwood flooring. Both RO and WO are very durable woods. Some might argue that the inherent hardness and density of WO makes it slightly more stable and durable compared to RO for wood flooring, but both types of hardwood flooring will work well. When it comes to staining RO vs. WO, both kinds of wood take stain easily. However, stain colors in lighter white and gray are quite popular today and WO is better suited to these hues. However, when it comes to using a medium to dark color, RO vs WO staining will look virtually the same. However, in my opinion, WO is the better fit for the chocolatey/expresso stain so many request for a stain color. That type of stain comes out much richer on WO. Being that both are quality hardwoods, choosing between RO and WO is a matter of preference and budget. Both offer the beauty that only nature can provide. That said, WO offers more advantages with slightly better strength and durability. Even with WO being a little pricier, homeowners are happy to pay the extra $ in order to mute the pinkish undertones found in RO.

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Hardwood Flooring Putty Can Be Very Helpful..

There are a lot of hardwood flooring companies out there but what we do differently is pay special attention to prep and finish work. A lot of guys/gals can throw down a hardwood floor or run a sander and brush some stain on but it’s the attention to detail that makes us stand apart from the others. Prep work is all about identifying certain conditions, either with the product or the jobsite, that could compromise the quality of the job. As I’ve mentioned before, these include ensuring the subfloor is dry and level, checking for any defects in the hardwood flooring and looking for any hazards that could cause problems down the road.  Then there are techniques that can really bring the “Wow” factor. On site-finished jobs, we apply wood putty to fill in any gaps or holes so that once the hardwood floor is sanded, stained and finished the floor will look tight and consistent. Applying the putty prior to staining/finishing ensures the putty will blend in with the wood as it will take the stain. On prefinished hardwood flooring installs, we pay special attention to the milling of the hardwood itself. If not milled precisely there will be unsightly gaps between boards which will need to be filled. Though there are wood puttys that are made to match many popular hardwood flooring stains, the less wood putty we have to use the better the floor will look. Another way we pay close attention to detail is a technique called board racking. Being that most hardwood flooring comes in random lengths, it is important to organize and arrange the boards in a way so to ensure in no area will there be a collection of boards of the same size. You can’t just open up a carton/bundle one at a time and start installing. We open all the cartons/bundles in a room and rack the boards so there is variation in lengths which will give a sense of flow and not look choppy. The trim installed after the floor is down is what really brings it all together and can make or break a job. When installing shoe/quarter round molding along the perimeter, we are careful to putty and caulk all nail holes and gaps which gives the trim a real tight look that complements the floor. It also takes a keen eye to sit transition pieces down nice and flush so they don’t look crooked or god forbid become a tripping hazard.  On site-finishing and refinishing jobs we are careful with how we apply the finish when we are finished. I’m not even finished, let me tell you how! Firstly, we control the area so there is no dust travel while applying the urethane. Nothing worse than doing an excellent job at sanding and staining only to have dust embedded in the finish at the end of the job. We are also careful as to which applicators we use as some perform better than others. Even the application of the urethane takes some technique. It takes a smooth hand and a sharp eye to make sure the coverage is even so to avoid any blemishes. Again paying special attention to these and other details is what makes us outshine the competition. If your clients aren’t raving up and down about when we’re finished then shame on us. But, with our special attention to the start and finish, we are confident in knowing the end result will be another job well done.

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That Annoying Bevel In Between Hardwood Floor Boards Explained..

In case you’re not familiar with the term, that line between the boards of a hardwood floor is called the bevel. There are a couple options available when it comes to the bevel. There are beveled-edge floors, micro-beveled edge and square-edged. It’s not always just a question of esthetics when considering a bevel…there are practical matters to consider as well… Beveled-edge floors are the ones that catch all the dirt and dust in the bevel and never look clean. It’s more of an old-fashioned construction and because of the fact mentioned above, they are not as popular as they once were and some manufacturers don’t even offer them anymore. Beveled-edge floors can also make the floor look choppy and don’t give a sense of flow like the other floors do. But again, the biggie here is all that gunk that gets caught in that bevel. I get calls all the time from home-owners looking for advice on how to get them clean. The only thing that can be done is a refinishing of the floor which would eliminate that eye-sore. The bevel would remain but the gunk would be gone. Micro-beveled floors are much more desirable, IMO. Some floors and certain species of wood look better with a little bit of definition between the boards. Some of the cleaner looking species of wood, like maple, can look almost too continuous without at least a micro-bevel. Being that the bevel itself is much tighter than a full bevel, there is no risk of accumulation of dirt/dust. Micro-bevels are the most common between all the options available. Then there are square-edged hardwood floors. These floors have no bevel and feature a tight fit between the boards. They are usually a bit more expensive than micro-bevel floors, but not by much. Almost all of the unfinished hardwood floors offered today come with a squared-edge. *** This is something to note should you or a client look to add hardwood to an adjoining room. If the existing floor has either a full or micro bevel, there may be a noticeable difference between the two floors. Unfortunately, sanding the floor does not completely eliminate the bevel.***

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hardwood floor

Watch Out for Pests That Can Damage Your Hardwood Floors!

There are 3 different types of living creatures that can be real pests for a hardwood floor. Since a hardwood floor is a considerable investment, it’s wise to be aware of these perils and take action should one find evidence of their existence.The EPA estimates that more than 2 billion dollars is spent annually treating wood-damaging pests. As real estate agents you are familiar with one of these buggers, the dreaded termite! They can do so much damage to a house that looking for them is a key component of a home inspection. But there are two other wood-damaging pests that we will look at as well. Here I will tell you what evidence to look out for so you and your clients can protect your investment. Termites –  Termites are the most destructive pest when it comes to wood damage. They eat wood, and their bodies convert the wood fiber into sugar. In only a few years, a colony of subterranean termites can destroy the entire structure of a house. And because they eat wood from the inside out, their damage isn’t immediately noticeable, and it can sometimes take quite awhile for a homeowner to even notice their presence. This compromises the structural integrity of wood until there’s nothing of substance left in it. It’s important to get your hardwood inspected for termites regularly so that you can prevent impending damage while there’s still time. Signs of termite damage include hollow-sounding wood, buckling floors, and visible tunnels or galleries in the wood. Also, if you notice any swarms of winged insects indoors, discarded wings, or pencil-thin mud tubes on exterior walls, you most likely have a termite problem. Powderpost Beetles –These are wood-boring insects that damage both hardwoods and softwoods. Their damage to hardwood flooring happens when their larvae bore into the wood through surface cracks. First, the adult beetle lays its eggs on the wood surface, then the larva bores through. The holes are created when the adult beetle emerges from its underground “womb”, and they can also cause a lot of damage from within the flooring, too. They can bore a million holes in the wooden mass and also weaken the flooring from within. Signs of powder post beetle damage include small holes in the wood, fine sawdust or “frass” around the holes, and weakened or crumbly wood. Carpenter antsThese ants are often mistaken for termites, but they do not eat wood. Instead, they burrow into it to create nests. While they do not cause as much damage as termites or powderpost beetles, they can still weaken the wood and cause it to become structurally unsound. Signs of carpenter ant damage include small holes in the wood, sawdust or debris around the holes, and rustling or tapping sounds coming from the walls or floors.Please pass this info on to your clients so they know what to look out for! Wood is too good to let it be ruined by these buggers. But in the event that you have a client that wants to address some existing damage, or needs a different kind of hardwood flooring service, you know where to send them!

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Hardwood floors in kitchen

Is Hardwood Flooring in the Kitchen a Good or Bad Idea?

One of the major selling points of hardwood flooring is that fact that it provides a continuous look that is able to tie several rooms together, if not the entire house itself. Many times one of the rooms will be a kitchen, and this is where things can get touchy. The kitchen is the most heavily used room in the house, bar none. This automatically means it will get the most amount of foot traffic which makes the floors susceptible to wear. Beyond that, there is a lot going on in the kitchen; you’ve got appliances that leak, pots and pans that can fall and cause damage and even liquids that can drip on the hardwood floors and cause stains and discoloration. When we get calls for repairs, the problem area is almost always the kitchen. Again, boards buckling from a leaky appliance, dark spots near the sink caused from accumulation of water droplets, etc. Since hardwood flooring a kitchen can be problematic, should it be avoided? I say – yes and no. No if the kitchen is open and connected to the other rooms. Yes if the kitchen is tucked-away or positioned in a way that going with another type of flooring won’t break up the sense of flow. That may sound shocking coming from a hardwood flooring contractor but I must speak the truth! Now, if hardwood flooring in the kitchen is an absolute must, there are things that can be done to mitigate the possible problems down the road. First thing would be to ensure the hardwood floor is sealed with a moisture-barrier sealant finish. This will protect the floor from those little water-droplets near the sink area. Another thing that can be done about that is putting down a small mat near the sink area. It goes without saying but I’ll say it, always a good idea to inspect the appliances to ensure they are not secretly and slowly leaking water onto the hardwood floors. In regards to the floors themselves, best to use a species of wood that is durable and won’t react dramatically to a little bit of moisture. Examples are red and white oak and maple. This will also help protect the floors from the heavy traffic. When site-finishing or refinishing hardwood floors in a kitchen, best to go with extra coats of poly-urethane. This will offer a durable layer of protection that will help the hardwood floors last longer.

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grey hardwood floor

Is Grey The Right Color For Your Hardwood Floor?

Keeping up with the latest trends in home improvement has always been a priority for real estate agents. If a listing client is doing a big remodel in order to get top dollar, it’s good to be able to recommend the best approach when it comes to design/layout/colors/etc. So what of this phenomenon with grey hardwood floors? Is grey here to stay or will it soon go away? Grey can definitely provide a contemporary look to a home and can even help tie-in modern and traditional if done right. It’s a touchy color to work with when it comes to hardwood flooring. The majority of the home-owners we work with prefer a light-grey tone which can be hard to achieve depending on the species of wood we are working with. So what are some of the best approaches your clients can take to get the shade of grey they want? The absolute best approach would be to go with a prefinished hardwood floor that already exemplifies the tone of grey they are looking for. These floors are ready right out of the box and just need to be installed, no sanding or staining required. They’ll also be able to pick the species they like best, one that contains the natural characteristics they are looking for. For example – maple has a clean/contemporary look whereas Oaks are more warm/traditional. But, they both look great in grey! Manufacturers of hardwood flooring know grey is IN right now so they’ve made available the many shades of grey. I don’t know about 50, but home owners will have plenty of options to pick from when they are hardwood floor shopping. Just make sure you do that with us!

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Learn All About The Interesting History Of Hardwood Floors!

Ever wonder about the hardwood flooring we walk on? I mean, ever wonder when and where it all began? Let me share some info I’ve found regarding the history of hardwood floors. Wood floors did not become popular until end of the 17th century and at that time only richies like French nobles and royalty could afford to have it in their homes. Back then the flooring was blocks of wood that were cut by hand and inlaid in intricate decorative patterns. Of course this required a lot of labor and hand crafting so naturally those floors weren’t cheap. These were the first well designed parquet floors. After the pilgrims came to America, plank floors became more common because they had an abundance of trees in the new world. They usually consisted of wide raw pine planks that were in the raw. In the 1800’s painted wooden plank flooring became popular among the common folk. If you were poor you might have boards of different sizes nailed down for your flooring. If you had more money you could afford tongue and grove type flooring, which were harder to install but resulted in a more level floor, which was then painted. Among the rich, parquet patterned floors were more common. During the Industrial Revolution of the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, companies began mass production of hardwood flooring. This flooring was made by gluing strips of wood approximately 1 1/2 inches by 5/16 of an inch, to heavy cotton fabric and rolled onto a roll, which was then sold in catalogs as hardwood carpet. These floors still had to be hand sanded, hot waxed and buffed and were very time consuming to install, prepare and maintain. Up until 1914, the most popular flooring was tongue and groove. Folks would install parquet flooring around the outside edge of carpeting because carpet was more costly than wood flooring, go figure! Linoleum and cork flooring gained popularity in the United States in the 1920’s through the 1940’s because they were cheap and easily installed. With the introduction of polyurethane as a wax free finish for wood flooring, it remained popular until about 1950.   Hardwood flooring began to steadily decline in popularity after World War II. Wall to wall carpeting became popular and hardwood was installed only as a sub-floor, even though it was still sanded and finished. Eventually, builders began using plywood as a sub-floor and covering it with wall to wall carpeting, so the demand for hardwood flooring greatly declined for about 30 years. Hardwood flooring manufacturers were then forced to sell carpet to keep from going out of business. Pre-finished v groove hardwood flooring became popular in the 1980’s but it was not well made. Then during the 1990’s with the rise of the housing market and building industry, hardwood flooring became a desire choice for flooring once again. In the modern era, engineered flooring has given customers a less expensive, versatile alternative to hardwood flooring. Due to conservation, the forests are replenished by planting new trees to replace the ones that are harvested for flooring, so that there’s ample supply of hardwoods. With today’s quality control standards, manufacturer’s are making a much better product that is very durable, hypoallergenic, easy to clean and maintain and very versatile. There is a type of hardwood flooring now that can be installed in almost any room, whether above grade or below grade, over existing flooring, wood sub-floor or concrete. With the introduction of today’s exotic hardwoods, the colors, grain patterns and custom design options are virtually limitless. Yes, floors have come a long way since the rich Frenchies were 1st walking on them. Let us know next time you have a client who’s looking to install or refinish a little piece of history!

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Is Bamboo Flooring Actually Durable?

Technically, Bamboo is a type of grass and not really a “hardwood”. Despite this fact, it’s actually harder and than some species of wood used to make hardwood flooring. It’s a favorite of those who are environmentally-minded as it is a resource that is abundant. It grows quickly and plentifully and is used for many different applications. Bamboo has a grain pattern that can give a floor a very unique look. It can work well with both a contemporary and traditional design. But, is bamboo a type of a floor that will hold up to wear and traffic? Let’s talk about this… Back in the day Bamboo only came in the natural color we all know and a carbonized option that gave it a warm brown look. These days you can get Bamboo in a variety of different stains and can even go with a rustic finish. These additional options help when looking to incorporate a bamboo floor into a decor. Also, regardless of the misinformation floating around stating the contrary, bamboo floors CAN be refinished! One thing to look out for with bamboo is the fact that it readily absorbs moisture so it will not be a good option for areas in the home with high humidity or moisture (basements/bathrooms). The first question in most home owners minds when shopping for a floor is whether or not it will stand up to traffic and wear. On this matter, from my experience, bamboo will not hold up as well as most species of real hardwoods (oak, maple, etc) will. I’ve seen bamboo floors with indentations from high-heel shoes, bamboo floors that would scratch just from looking at them and even bamboo flooring of such low quality that no proud hardwood flooring contractor would feel good installing because they’d know the floor just won’t stand up to normal wear and tear. That is one of the big issues with bamboo flooring – the availability of cheap, poorly made products. How do you spot them? Well, like anything else, you get what you pay for. If the price is much lower than comparable floors, best to stay away. This is especially true when dealing with engineered bamboo flooring. The thin veneer used in engineered flooring can easily be damaged if coming from a low-quality manufacturer. Me personally, I’m not a big fan of bamboo. I think it could look cool in a special room to compliment a particular decor, but I don’t think it’s a very practical floor to put throughout the house. Again, superficially it seems to scratch and dent easily. Beyond that, the clean/uniform look doesn’t hide any of the wear you will inevitably get throughout the years. But, that’s me.

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